INTERVIEW WITH KATHY FANG: What are you carrying forward in May?

For Chef Kathy Fang, memory lives in many forms. In the meals shared around a family table, in the rhythm of restaurant life, in heirlooms passed from one generation to the next.

As the co-owner of House of Nanking and founder of Fang, Kathy carries forward a legacy deeply rooted in heritage, community, and San Francisco itself. Her story is one shaped by family, tradition, and the rituals that bring people together time and time again.

In this conversation, we spoke with Kathy about the memories that continue to guide her, the meaning attached to the jewelry she wears, and the experience of building something people return to across generations.

1. House of Nanking is such an iconic part of San Francisco and your family's story. What has it been like stepping into a legacy so deeply connected to heritage and community?

I feel incredibly lucky to have a legacy like this to build upon. Everyone says running a restaurant is hard and it is, mentally and physically but after 18 years of Fang and 38 years of Nanking, I still love going in and grinding it out. The best part of my day is interacting with customers and seeing how a place like Nanking becomes such a meaningful part of people's lives. A restaurant operating in a historic neighborhood like Chinatown is a living, breathing museum with history baked into its walls. If we can keep the food, the soul, and the space the same for generations to come, we're creating history. Not every business gets to say that.

2. Food and jewelry both carry memory in such an emotional way. Are there certain meals, objects, or rituals from your childhood that still feel meaningful today?

My grandmother's glass lazy Susan spinning on her round redwood dining table. That image is forever ingrained in me. Our family shared so many meals around that table, it's where I first discovered food from my parents' hometown of Shanghai. Every spin was a new discovery of taste, texture, and delight. I was an only child with parents who worked seven days a week, so I was home alone a lot. But whenever I went to my grandparents' and sat around that table with aunts, uncles, cousins, family friends, it felt like the most alive I ever was. That table gave life to me in so many ways.

3. Has your relationship to jewelry and personal style evolved through motherhood, entrepreneurship, and stepping into leadership?

Absolutely. I got into jewelry in my mid-twenties, largely inspired by the mother of someone I was dating, she had the most exquisite taste. She'd walk into a room and stop you in your tracks. She taught me to own your style, not be afraid of statement pieces, and to mix jewelry with confidence. She also had stories tied to every piece she owned, and now I do the same. I love collecting jewelry when I travel because it's tied to a memory and I always go big and bold with jewelry when I’m out.

But for most of the days, when I’m working at the restaurant, I’m very simple, laidback and unfussy. No jewelry because I use my hands so much. Which means, when I do get out for a dinner, a date, or an event, I fully embrace the opportunity to dress up and show my personality and mood. I'm a bit of a chameleon these days switching between: bold colors and classic staples for work events, simple comfortable chic for outings with my kids, and moodier sleeker pieces for dinner or date nights. That's when the jewelry really gets fun.

4. Is there a piece of jewelry or heirloom you return to that holds special significance?

I have a few jade pieces my mother gifted me over the years. Jade is one of the most treasured and symbolic stones, it represents strength, wealth, and tradition in our culture. When she gave them to me, it was her and my father's way of saying they wanted to pass down what they'd been blessed with and worked hard for and their hope that I'd do the same for my children. Simple, classic pieces that go with everything and are meant to last through generations. I especially love wearing them to galas or special events, they make me feel connected to my family and my heritage.

5. Spring often feels like a season of renewal. What story or intention are you carrying forward this May?

I'm feeling genuinely refreshed and inspired. I'm coming off a James Beard Media nomination for the cookbook I co-wrote with my father about our family's restaurant, a project I'd been wanting to do for decades. To finally complete it and then receive that recognition puts the ultimate cherry on top. It's bringing me into summer with real excitement, positivity, and a deep sense of contentment. I feel incredibly centered and grounded right now.

6. What does it mean to you to continue building something people return to across generations?

It's the most satisfying thing I get to be a part of. Francis Ford Coppola has been a friend and customer since the day we opened in 1988, he just celebrated his birthday at Fang with three generations of his family. That's 38 years of our food at his table. There's no higher compliment. But moments like that only happen if someone continues building what came before them. Restaurants are community spaces, places where people connect, create memories, and come back to. If I can help keep that tradition alive so people can expect the same experience they've always had, then I know I've made a difference. It's not anything grand. But sometimes it's the smallest things that matter most.